Feb
17

Quails’ Gate Estate Winery Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay 2008

Quails’ Gate Estate Winery

Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay 2008

Okanagan Valley, BC

$30-35 +639641 available at BC Liquor stores, VQA stores and select private wine stores

www.quailsgate.com

Select British Columbia and Ontario VQA wines are headed to The Big Apple for a Seriously Cool Chardonnay media tasting on March 8. 54 wines from 31 Canadian wineries are crossing the 49th parallel to show wine scribes a couple of things:

1. What Canadian cool climate chardy can be, and 2. We make more than icewine.

VQA wineries in British Columbia and Ontario were invited to submit their wines in a blind tasting judged by a panel of Canadian judges led by Tony Aspler. The panel previewed 100 Canadian Chardonnays to select contenders. According to Aspler, “The wines chosen for the New York tasting show how versatile Chardonnay can be when grown in Canadian vineyards – from sparkling wine, to unoaked Chardonnay, Chardonnay Musqué, ripe New World styles in BC and Icewine.”

One wine that made the cut is Quails’ Gate Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay 2008. The Stewart family, pioneering horticulturists in the Okanagan valley since 1908, certainly know a thing or two about Chardonnay. Quails’ Gate has long been an industry and consumer favourite, and though their portfolio is a good size, their focus is towards Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Their 125 acre lakefront property in Westbank is ideally situated on the favourable south facing slope above Lake Okanagan. Vineyards are planted in a mixture of volcanic rock (from extinct Mt. Boucherie) and glacial clay, and though difficult to farm, Quails’ Gate believes that this terroir contributes to character-rich wines.

This is Quails’ Gate Winery’s premium Chardonnay, and no expense was spared in its creation: older vines, barrel-fermented in French oak (50% new), full malolactic fermentation. Aromas of white blossoms, white peach and toast lead to rich and full flavours of apple, ripe peach, grapefruit, cool mineral and sweet vanilla. Weighty and textured, this is drinking lovely right now, but could lie down for another couple of years. Pair with crab, lobster, sablefish or butter poached chicken.

Feb
14

Gonzales Byass Noe Pedro Ximenez VORS

Gonzales Byass

Noe Pedro Ximénez VORS

Jerez-Xeres- Sherry Manzanillo DO, Spain

$35-40 for 375ml   +889519   Available at BC Liquor Stores or select private stores

www.gonzalesbyass.com

Valentine’s Day is right around the bend, and if you’re trying to impress your Queen or King of Hearts with a luxurious feast, let me help you a bit with dessert. First, buy (or make) the best, premium vanilla ice cream you can – with real vanilla bean bits chopped up in there – the real deal. Scoop some in a bowl and crack some quality fresh black pepper over top, and add a few flakes of Malden sea salt. That’s it – simple, right? Oh yeah, serve with the one and only wine that can pair with ice cream – Pedro Ximénez. You can thank me later.

Pedro Ximénez [HE-men-eth], or PX as it’s affectionately called, epitomizes the adage that a little goes a long way. Made from a white grape with the same name, this dessert wine is crafted by drying the grapes on esparto grass mats under the hot Spanish sun, concentrating the sweetness and raisinating the grapes, which are then used to create a thick, dark potion. This wine is fortified and aged in the Solera system, as are other sherries.

The Byass Noe PX is an exceptional example. The wines in Noe have been designated a VORS (Very Old Rare Sherry) with an average age of 30 years, adding incredible complexity to this concentrated sweet sherry. In the glass, a walnut-mahogany core stretches to a glowing orange rim. Rich molasses, fig and spice aromas are followed by flavours of roasted figs, espresso, nuts and raisins. The texture is smooth and unctuous, creating a staggeringly long and layered finish. Not cloyingly sweet, just powerfully decadent.

A special wine for your special valentine.

May
28

*Introducing drink

Drink is a new column on EATmagazine.ca intended to satisfy your thirst.

Whether you thirst for knowledge or are just plain thirsty, you should bookmark drink. Providing wine, beer, spirit and cocktail reviews twice+ weekly, drink is your tweet-ready and timely online resource.  Long time EAT contributor and sommelier Treve Ring is our web wine editor, and will continue to bring her bevvy knowledge and approachable writing style to the reviews.  Expect drink to preview events, report live from tastings, introduce new releases, highlight bottles to stock up on and suggest the perfect pairing to the day’s forecast.  Treve will rate each drink on a scale of 1-5 stars based on value, and most importantly, taste.

www.eatmagazine.ca/drink

May
27

Masi Modello Della Venezie Bianco 2009

Masi Modello Della Venezie Bianco 2009
Veneto, Italy
$13-16
www.masi.it

You’ve heard of the Tour de France, non?  Of course, how could you not with Planet Armstrong and Livestrong and all of the YELLOW everywhere each July.  But how many follow theGiro d’Italia (Tour of Italy)? One of cycling’s Grand Tours, this amazing 21 day epic race takes place every May, and this year, the 93rd edition, the race has taken 22 teams of riders 3400 kilometres from the top of Italy almost down to the boot, and back up again.  I assume – like me – you’ve been following it online (www.cyclingfans.com) and cheering on the pink jersey (Italy’s version of yellow). So of course, you know that this amazing race ends this Sunday in Verona.

That deserves a toast.

I get tired just thinking about the race, so I need something – thirst quenching.  And I get stressed out watching the sprints, so I need something – cheap. And in honour of the Giro ending in beautiful Verona, I’ve looked to the surrounding area of Veneto for today’s drink.  Masi is an easy pick – a massive and respected producer, credited for having revolutionized the art of winemaking in the Venetian region.  And this wine is a steal – even on our market!  A blend of Garganega, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Bianco yields fresh apple and sweet peach aromas, and bright flavours of pear, white peach, citrus and bitter almond – a recurring hallmark of whites from the area. Smooth mouthfeel, lively acid and elegant balance throughout – this is a modern wine, based on the very ancient, indigenous grape Garganega.

I’m going to pair mine with cyclingfans.com – but you can try with halibut or risotto verde.  Cheers cyclists!

May
26

Silverside Farm & Winery – Raspberry Wine

Who – Silverside Farm & Winery

What – Raspberry Wine

Where – Cobble Hill, Vancouver Island

Why – Really – fruit wines have such a bad rep.  Hazy headache memories of sugary sweet syrups come flooding back to most when the topic of fruit wine comes up.  Here’s an update – not all fruit wines are sweet, and not all fruit wines are syrupy.  Some are vinified dry, and meant to be enjoyed with your savoury entrée.  Here’s an offdry wine that is better suited to pork dinner than cheesecake.  An amazingly fresh, vibrant aroma of summer’s juiciest raspberries leaps out of the glass, with more berry flavours, herbs and soft spice on the palate and a drying jammy finish.  Nice acidity and heft – this clocks in at 15.5% alcohol!

When – Try with pork tenderloin dressed with cherries – or with dark chocolate (Organic Fair Chocolates is located nearby!).

How (much) – $20.00 for 750 ml

Winespeak of the Week – Situated at the south end of the Cowichan Valley in Cobble Hill, Silverside Farm has evolved over the decades from berries into wine.  In addition to wines (they also make a selection of fortified wines), fresh berries and produce, new owners Lyn Jakimchuk and wine maker, Don Bull also offer jams, jellies, and fruit vinegars made right on the farm. Certainly a lovely addition to a Cowichan Valley wine tour this summer.

May
21

BREE Riesling 2008

Peter Mertes BREE Riesling 2008
Mosel
Pfalz, Germany
$16.50-$19

Happy  Victoria Day!  Today’s holiday started me thinking about wine in England – and what we could use to toast the sovereign today.  We all know of the UK love for Claret and Port – but this morning’s sunshine negated those choices. The English are also big fans of German whites, which they affectionately call Hock.

Hock sometimes refers to wine from the Rhine regions, but generally encompasses all German wine. It is short for the obsolete word hockamore – a derivative of the name of the German town of Hochheim on the Main River in the Rheingau wine region. Dating back to the 17th Century, it seems probable that Queen Victoria’s visit to Hochheim and its vineyards during harvest time in 1850 has contributed to the continued use of the term hock.

So – hock it is to toast the Queen!  And this brand new to BC Riesling makes for a fine toast indeed.  I have to admit, I was skeptical when I saw the trick pony bottle, but cynical Treve was in check when I had a taste.  Fresh and bright, with aromas and flavours of ripe green apple, lemonade and minerals.  Light bodied and off dry with a smooth, pleasing lemon finish, this will be a wonderful summertime addition to your patio party or picnic.  Screwcap appreciated!

When I researched this wine, I discovered that the bottle was designed specifically to appeal to women, and inspired by the sleek and stylish shape of a perfume bottle. Now that is wine meant for a queen.  Or at least a diva.

May
20

Bloom! BC Wine Institute Spring Release

This past week Bloom burst into both the Victoria and Vancouver markets.  Organized by the BC Wine Institute, this annual travelling tasting brings VQA winemakers to trade and media.  The spring releases were showcased this week – with diversity from all corners of the province, across numerous varietals and highlighting a spectrum of styles.  I was quite impressed by the vast majority of wines this spring – warmly welcoming new versions of old favourites (Tantalus) while relishing the introduction to newer wineries (Clos du Soleil).

Though I gave it my all to try as many wines as I could, it was just impossible to taste and chat with everyone – I was especially sorry to see I missed the Sumac Ridge table and their sparklers – ARG– next time!  Here are a few faves:

See Ya Later Ranch Brut NV.  There’s a reason we pour this one all the time at EBC dinners.  Fresh, crisp and refreshing – a wonderful match to foods from all families.

Black Hills Alibi 2009.  Brilliant and balanced Sauv Blanc/Semillon that has seen time in both stainless and French oak – each treatment blending seamlessly to create an impressive and weighty Bx blend.

Clos du Soleil White 2007. Another Bx blend – this time 95% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Semillon.  Nutty and spicy, with citrus, gooseberry and a great river of minerality spiking through, fresh acid and a beautiful balance.

Tantalus Riesling 2009.  Wow – this wine gets better every vintage.  I love the kiss of sweetness, the waft of limey petrol and the bright, strict, balanced acid.

La Stella Leggerio 2009.  My favourite wine of the tasting?  Got to be this unoaked Chardy from La Stella.  Amazing freshness, river minerality, crisp lemon and cream.  Stunning.

Tantalus Rose 2009.  The last time we saw a rose from this winery was 2006.  Why now?  Listen to the grapes – they will let you know.  70% Pinot Noir is complmented by Pinot Meunier.  Bone dry, austere and serious.  Seriously good.

Dirty Laundry Hush 2009.  Pretty much the opposite end of the spectrum from the Tantalus Rose – but every bit as yum.  Off dry, with strawberry, rhubarb and pear and a beautiful citrus kissed finish.  Tastes like more.

Road 13 Rockpile 2008.  The move away from varietals towards blends is a risk that has paid off.  Layered flavours that keep changing in the class, on your palate and through the lengthy finish make this a new hot pick.

Hester Creek Reserve Cabernet Franc 2005.  I love me a good Cab Franc.  And this is one of them.  Cedar, sage, bramble, raspberry, savoury goodness.  Thank you!

Clos du Soleil Red 2007.  This meritage blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Franc is polished, layered and lengthy.  A beautiful dusty gravel nose is surrounded with warm jammy raspberry, cherry, cedar and herbs.

May
19

Clos du Soleil Red 2007 AND White 2007

Clos du Soleil

Red 2007 ($39-45)
White 2007 ($27-31)

Similkameen Valley

www.closdusoleil.ca

This week’s Bloom – VQA spring release tasting – burst forth in both Victoria and Vancouver.  There were a number of lovelies that I’m looking forward to revisiting very soon (La Stella Leggier, La Vieux Pin Reserve Merlot, Tantalus Rose, Dirty Laundry Hush, Black Hills Alibi among them), but the winery that is imprinted in my mind – and on my palate – is Clos du Soleil.

One of BC’s newer wineries, Clos du Soleil is a collaboration of friends, nestled in the Similkameen, and fostered by the respected Lawrence and Sharon Herder, of Herder Winery.  While cofounder Spenser Massie and his team are obviously enamored with all things French – especially Bordeaux – the crew at Clos du Soleil believe that less is more.  Their current portfolio consists of two wines – White, and Red. Pretty simple.  Until you taste them, that is.  Suddenly ‘simple’ doesn’t suffice.

White 2007 is a creamy, smooth lemon and mineral knockout – a blend of 95% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Semillon.  Nutty and spicy, with citrus, gooseberry and a great river of minerality spiking through, fresh acid and a beautiful balance – I was sure I had tasted my favourite wine of the day.

Until I tasted the Red 2007 that is.  Wow – this meritage blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Franc is polished, layered and lengthy.  A beautiful dusty gravel nose is surrounded with warm jammy raspberry, cherry, cedar and herbs.  Powerful with structure, yet elegant and smooooth – I have no doubt this will age well, but will be hard to keep around long enough to see. Spenser shared that future vintages of Red will contain Malbec and Petit Verdot as their vines mature – a full Bx set.  With Niagara winemaker Ann Sperling newly added to the team, I’m getting giddy just thinking about it.

There are only 450 cases of each Red and White available, so pick one (or two) up when you see them – and do me a favor – let me know how they age, k?

May
15

Averill Creek Vineyard – Foch-eh 2009

Averill Creek Vineyard Foch-eh 2009

Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island
$18-22
www.averillcreek.ca

Foch-eh! Is Fun-eh!  And by that I mean that this is a wine that pairs with fun. Summer BBQ’s, on the dock at the lake, chilled on the patio in the late aft….  This isn’t a winter warmer – even though it is made from that deepest of red grapes – Marechal Foch.

‘What’s that?’ you s-eh.  A light and carefree Marechal Foch?  It’s true – 100% Canadian Marechal Foch in fact, estate grown at Cowichan Valley’s Averill Creek Vineyard. Then, just like that other fun (and incredibly famous) red, Beaujolais, the grapes underwent carbonic maceration.  A somewhat intimidating term for a fairly simple process.  Whole bunches were put in tank under carbon dioxide for two weeks. The gas permeates through the grape skins and stimulates fermentation inside each intact berry.  During this time the grapes are macerated (crushed) by gravity. The escaping gas affects the wine, resulting in very fruity characteristics, bright hue and low tannins.   The difference between Foch-eh and Beaujolais is that the latter is crafted from gamine Gamay grapes, and the former is from fierce Foch.

The result – an easy-drinking, light-medium bodied wine – bright royal purple in colour with a bold nose of plum, and flavours of plum, mulled cherry and sweet spice.  The structure is soft but the finish is long and fruity – and would be ideal served slightly chilled.  Finally – a use for those plastic reusable ice cubes!

If you haven’t visited Averill Creek in person, you really need to.  Besides great wine, Andy Johnston’s winery is visually stunning – crafted on four levels sloping down Mt. Prevost.  The levels are fitted together so as to create a gravity flow method for handling the wine. The first (top) level of the winery is the grape reception pad. This flows to the press pad and ferment floor. After fermentation the wine flows by gravity to the blending floor and then to the barrel room. The wine ends up in barrel having never been pumped – helping to retain the identity and terroir of Cowichan Valley fruit.  This is especially important for Averill Creek’s highly regarded Pinot Noir.

May
13

Driftwood Brewery Belle Royale

Driftwood Brewery Belle Royale

Victoria, BC
$5-7 for 650ml bottle  (9% abv)
www.driftwoodbeer.com

Well, we’ve reached the half way mark of the first ever Vancouver Craft Beer Week.  Numerous dinners, tastings and events are taking place throughout the city.  And Victoria’s newest brewery, Driftwood, is proving to be the buzzy, boozy, Belle of the Ball.  Especially their new Belle Royale.

This limited edition strong Belgian cherry ale was created with nearly 900 pounds of Morello sour cherries (that’s ¼ pound per bottle, thank you math wizards).   Salmon orange in hue, with mild cherry aromas and flavours of spicy hops, crisp tart citrus and a lingering bitter cherry finish.  Surprisingly, not overtly cherry – more waftish, with nice fresh acid.   Would make a wow moment with cherry glazed pork tenderloin or enjoy with a dark chocolate dessert – Black Forest cake please.

Bonus points for stunning label.  Ooh la la!

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